Welcome to God’s Own Country. We’ve all seen the pictures—the serene backwaters, the emerald tea hills, the golden beaches. But this time, I wanted to explore Kerala slowly, deeply, and a little differently. My journey from Delhi was a quest to move beyond the postcards and find the soul of this incredible state, from its ancient port cities to its roaring waterfalls. This is a guide to that journey, a story for every landscape that captured my heart.
For those planning a trip, the best time to visit for pleasant weather is from November to March. My path was designed for a slow pace, allowing for true immersion. It started with the rich heritage and art of Kochi, before ascending into the emerald tea gardens and mountain sunrises of Munnar. From there, I surrendered to the serene houseboat life of the Alleppey backwaters, explored the quiet world of bird watching in Kumarakom, and then relaxed on the unique cliff beaches of Varkala. A quiet resort interlude in Kollam offered a moment of peace before the grand finale: the majestic Athirappilly waterfalls.
Kochi: Where History Breathes on the Coast
My journey began as I landed at Kochi airport from Delhi. The air felt different—warm, humid, and scented with spice and sea. I chose a heritage homestay in Fort Kochi, and I recommend you do the same. This part of the city is a living museum. I spent my days walking through its streets, mesmerized by the iconic Chinese fishing nets silhouetted against the sunset, sitting in the quiet pews of the 500-year-old St. Francis Church, and getting lost in the vibrant street art. Kochi’s history as a major hub in the ancient spice trade is palpable in its antique markets and diverse architecture. It’s the perfect gateway to understanding Kerala’s cosmopolitan past.
Munnar: A Soulful Escape into the Emerald Hills
The drive from the coast to Munnar is a journey into the clouds. The landscape transforms into rolling hills carpeted with meticulously manicured tea gardens. The air grows cool and the scent of tea is everywhere. I took a tour of a local tea factory, where I learned the fascinating process of how a simple green leaf is withered, rolled, and dried into the chai we love.
The highlight of Munnar was the pre-dawn jeep safari to Kolukkumalai Sunrise Point. Standing above a sea of clouds as the sun painted the sky in hues of orange and gold was a truly magical, core memory. Later, I explored Top Station viewpoint and spent time in Eravikulam National Park. In these hills, a simple cup of chai tastes different—more fragrant, more soulful.
Alleppey: Surrendering to the Silence of the Backwaters
From the hills, I descended to the tranquil backwaters of Alleppey (Alappuzha). Here, I boarded a traditional houseboat, or Kettuvallam. These beautifully crafted boats, once used to transport rice, are now floating sanctuaries. For 24 hours, my world was confined to the gentle rhythm of the water. I spent hours on the deck, watching village life unfold on the banks, seeing children wave, and listening to the calls of kingfishers. The geography of the backwaters is incredible—a 900 km network of interconnected canals, rivers, and lakes. Staying overnight is essential; it’s when the day-trippers leave that you feel the true, profound silence of this unique ecosystem.
Kumarakom: Discovering the Whispers of Village Life
While Alleppey is about the houseboat journey, Kumarakom is about stillness. I stayed at a lakeside retreat and my mornings were dedicated to the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary. Waking up early and walking its quiet paths, hearing only the rustle of leaves and the calls of migratory birds, was a meditative experience.
The most authentic experience here was the Village Walk. I met local artisans and families, watched a man deftly tap a coconut tree for toddy (a local palm wine), and saw women weaving coir rope by hand. This is a fantastic way to support the local community directly and understand the traditional way of life that sustains the backwaters.
Varkala: Chasing Sunsets on the Cliff’s Edge
Next, I headed to the coast, to the unique town of Varkala—the only place in Southern Kerala where you find dramatic cliffs adjacent to the Arabian Sea. The vibe here is relaxed and bohemian. I spent my days hopping between cliff-top cafés, reading a book with the sound of waves below, shopping for souvenirs in the street-side stalls, and practicing yoga. The main activity in Varkala is simply being present and watching the spectacular sunsets that set the sky on fire each evening.
Kollam: A Moment for a Quiet Interlude
Between Varkala and my final destination, I took a one-night stopover at a beautiful resort in Kollam. This was a day for pure relaxation—swinging in a hammock, enjoying authentic Keralan meals, and simply absorbing the peace of my journey so far. Sometimes, the best travel plan is to have no plan at all.
Athirappilly: The Majestic Waterfall Finale
My final stop was the majestic Athirappilly Waterfalls, the largest in Kerala. This is a place of raw, divine power. Its cinematic fame is well-earned, having been featured in films like Baahubali and Raavan. After taking in the view from the upper viewpoint, I hiked down to the base. Standing there, feeling the immense energy and the cool mist on my face, was an unforgettable experience. The sound is a deafening roar that drowns out everything else, leaving you in a state of pure awe. A key tip: Visit on a weekday morning to avoid the crowds and experience its full, untamed glory.
A Conscious Traveler’s Guide to Kerala
- Houseboat Tips: When booking a houseboat in Alleppey, choose a size that fits your group (e.g., 1-bedroom for couples, 3-bedroom for families). Always check recent reviews for cleanliness and food quality.
- Connectivity: Internet is decent in cities like Kochi and Varkala but can be patchy in the remote hills of Munnar and on the backwaters in Alleppey.
- Budget Range: Expect to pay ₹1000–1500 per night for basic, clean hotels. A good houseboat for a night will cost ₹5000 and up. Local meals are affordable at ₹150–250, while café meals will be around ₹400–500.
- Local Etiquette: Always be respectful. Ask for permission before photographing people, especially toddy tappers or village artisans. Avoid using plastic in the backwaters and wildlife zones.
- Booking in Advance: For unique experiences like the Kolukkumalai sunrise hike or entry to the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, it’s wise to book in advance, especially during peak season.
A Final Reflection
“Kerala didn’t rush to impress me — it just stood still and let me slow down.” This line stayed with me throughout my journey. From misty hills to crashing falls, from a quiet cup of chai to the taste of fresh toddy, Kerala gave me stories and a sense of peace to cherish for a lifetime.
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