Ram se shuru hota hai iska naam… Its name begins with Ram, and its soul resonates with Shiv. This is Rameshwaram. My journey to this sacred island wasn’t planned. It was an extension of my trip to Kanyakumari, a pull of destiny that led me here on the auspicious day of Sawan Amavasya. Some journeys, I’ve learned, are not chosen by us; they are chosen by something bigger. This is the story of one such journey—a pilgrimage to one of India’s four Char Dhams, a place where mythology, faith, and history wash ashore with every wave.
For those undertaking this sacred yatra, here’s a quick overview. Rameshwaram, located on Pamban Island in Tamil Nadu, is one of the 12 Jyotirlinga sites and a cornerstone of the Char Dham pilgrimage. The central ritual is the 22 Tirtham Snan (a holy bath in 22 sacred wells) inside the Ramanathaswamy Temple. A visit to Dhanushkodi, the ghost town at the edge of India, is essential. A crucial tip: the temple has a multi-step process for darshan, so be prepared for a deeply immersive ritual that takes time and participation.
A Journey Chosen by Destiny
My trip was supposed to end at Kanyakumari. But when I learned it was Sawan Amavasya—a day of immense significance for paying homage to ancestors—I knew I had to go to Rameshwaram. A flight from Delhi to Madurai followed by a 3-hour road trip brought me to the shores of Pamban. Arriving on the island, the energy was palpable. The town was flooded with thousands of pilgrims, feet swollen from their own long journeys, yet their faces alight with faith.
The Ramanathaswamy Temple: Cleansing the Soul in 22 Sacred Wells
The heart of Rameshwaram is the magnificent Ramanathaswamy Temple. Before the main darshan, pilgrims undertake the 22 Tirtham Snan. I bought my ₹25 ticket, deposited my belongings in a ₹50 locker, changed into a simple dhoti for the first time, and joined the queue.
One by one, you move to the 22 sacred wells inside the temple complex. At each well, a temple worker pours a bucket of its holy water over you. The water temperature, taste, and feel of each well is different. It’s a powerful, purifying ritual that washes away not just the dust of the journey, but the dust off your soul.
After the bath, you change into dry clothes and proceed for the darshan of the Jyotirlinga. Walking barefoot into the ancient, stone-carved sanctum, seeing the Shivling that Lord Rama himself is said to have established to atone for killing Ravana, I froze. There are no words to describe that moment of connection. It felt like I had walked straight into the pages of the Ramayana.
Dhanushkodi: At the Edge of the Ramayana
A 30-minute ride on my rented scooty (₹700 for the day) took me to Dhanushkodi, the ghost town at the southeastern tip of the island. This is where the Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean meet. The winds here roar with stories. This is the spot where Lord Rama is said to have commanded Hanuman to build the Ram Setu to Lanka. Standing on that narrow strip of land, with the sea on both sides, you feel incredibly small, a tiny spectator in an epic, timeless saga.
A Different Kind of Pilgrimage: The Home of Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam
In the narrow streets of Rameshwaram lies a different kind of temple—the humble childhood home of Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam. Seeing his simple belongings, his books, his desk, and his awards was a deeply moving experience. The quote, “Simple living, high thinking,” wasn’t just a phrase; it was his life. Standing in the home of India’s Missile Man, a man of deep faith and profound scientific intellect, felt like a pilgrimage in itself.
A Pilgrim’s Practical Guide to Rameshwaram
- The Temple Darshan Process:
- First, deposit your footwear and electronic devices in the lockers available for a nominal fee.
- Buy the ticket for the 22 Tirtham Snan (₹25 per person).
- Wear appropriate attire (dhoti for men, saree/salwar kameez for women is recommended).
- After the holy bath, change into dry clothes before entering the main temple for darshan.
- There are different queues for darshan: free, and special tickets for ₹100 or ₹200 for faster access.
- Getting Around: Renting a scooty is a great way to explore Pamban Island, including Dhanushkodi. Autos and cabs are also available.
- Where to Stay: There are many budget hotels and dharamshalas. It’s advisable to book in advance, especially during festival days.
- Local Food: Don’t miss out on the simple, delicious South Indian thalis and breakfast items at local eateries like Saravana Hotel. The warmth with which they serve you, as my server Tanushree did, makes the food taste even better.
A Final Reflection
I didn’t plan this trip. On Sawan Amavasya, I simply stood where Lord Rama began his journey to Lanka. Aaj maine sirf ek mandir nahi dekha, maine Ram aur Shiv ka milan mehsoos kiya. (Today, I didn’t just see a temple; I felt the union of Ram and Shiv.)
Rameshwaram is one of the four corners of India’s sacred geography, a place where faith bridges the ocean. This wasn’t just a trip to the south; it felt like walking beside Ram ji himself, understanding that the greatest journeys are often the ones we are led to, not the ones we choose.
Leave a Reply